Mt. Pulag: What the Playground of Gods Taught Us about Taking Things Slowly (via Akiki Trail)

WARNING: If you are looking for a detailed itinerary and summary of expenses of our Akiki-Ambangeg hike, feel free to scroll down to the last part of this post. You might find the next paragraphs to be overly dramatic and gross. ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚

One of the many guilty pleasures of every human being is getting envious of the achievements of other people. In this age of instant gratification, itโ€™s easier to see in our news feed photos of former high school classmates getting married, college friends christening their babies, and colleagues completing their Masterโ€™s degree. Then we begin to entertain the little devil inside us: What has become of me all these years?

Backtrack 2013, I was so solid on the idea during graduation that Iโ€™d be wearing the same sablay as the dean and program head years after completing that bachelorโ€™s degree, but look where destiny brought me: in the mountains. Am I on the right track? Am I in the right direction?

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Where am I headed? (c) Dakilanglaagan

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How we got to Mt. Pulag

Once upon a time…

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail

It all started with curiosity. Believe me, Pulag was never on my list of places to visit. With all the swarm it got after earning such attention in social media, its glister started to fade in my eyes.

But the bandwagon is scary. Itโ€™s tempting and addictive. So when the group I was with in Mt. Talinis shared that theyโ€™re planning to hike Pulagโ€™s most difficult trail, I suddenly found myself booking a ticket, filing a leave of absence, buying thermal jackets, and reading more and more blogs about the place. Not part of the list? Not interested? Yes, my life is a big joke and the capital of sarcasm.

In a land far, far away…

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail, topload
Caught in the act – Dennis, Jeff, and Guide
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Mandatory Group Photo at the Ranger Station
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Welcome remarks by the strong winds and heavy downpour of the rain (c) Dakilanglaagan

After six hours of a rollercoaster ride to Bagiuo and another two hours to Kabayan, Benguet, the trek to the first campsiteโ€”Eddet Riverโ€”commenced. But instead of getting the familiar Filipino hospitality, we were greeted by the harsh winds and heavy downpours of rain.

Adventure huh? The trail began to get muddy and steep. Our packs got heavier and heavier as it drenched in the rain. And the bones in the caverns witnessed how much we wanted to put a halt on this journey and go back to where we started

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Photo op of Ate Jah (c) Dakilanglaagan

ย But the pines were too beautiful and the scenery was so vibrant, even with the dreadful welcome. We began to want more, see more, and feel more.

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There lived aโ€ฆ.

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Setting up the tent and preparing dinner
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Pitching of the tent by Pulag porter-guides
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Eddet River (c) Dakilanglaagan
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Crossing Eddet River (c) Dakilanglaagan

The night at Eddet River was festive. And like heavy drunkards, we had the best sleep of our lives. We thought everything would be in order for the second day. But after eight hours of combating the Pine Trail, the rain began to embrace us as we entered the Mossy Forest.

Who wanted to see what was outside of the castleโ€ฆ

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Hug a tree goal of Kaye ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚
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Lead group – Anne was followed by our porter-guide who was carrying a 40kilo load.
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Mossy Forest shot of Princess (c) Dakilanglaagan

Instead of joining the lead group, I found myself at the tail of the pack consoling those who were having a hard time, wanting to go back to Cebu, questioning the essence of what we were doing. But rather than feeling disheartened by each otherโ€™s sentiments, we discovered the joy of taking pauses, complaining about life but still facing head-on the challenges, and enjoying every blissful moment of it.

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Who wanted to fight the dragons and witchesโ€ฆ

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail, grassland
Welcome to the Grassland!!!
mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Team Last (L-R) – Kaye, Jen, Cristina, Jovy, and Princess

But optimism has its limits, most especially when youโ€™re at higher altitudes, colder temperatures, and weaker resistance. A very strong wind lashed us out when we exited the mossy forest trail. โ€˜Welcome to the grassland,โ€™ it said.

At that time, we hardly saw each other because of the thick fog that surrounded the area. Itโ€™s four in the afternoon but not even a streak of light passed through the impenetrable clouds. We donโ€™t know if the lead group arrived safely at the Saddle Camp. It seemed like the final battle of the game. Facing the master: ourselves.

When we arrived at the Saddle Camp, everything was havocโ€”no proper site to camp as it was flooded everywhere. Moreover, most of our things were already wet. We set up camp and cooked whatever was easy and fast to prepare, then tried to sleep. Tried but failed.

As the ground sheets gathered all the rainwater and fly sheets began to fail to fulfill their purpose, it was as if we were drenched in the rain even if we were inside the tent. Our sleeping bags got wet, like the rest of our things. Hence, in these situations, sleep was literally for the weak. We heard some of our companions praying for safety, others making the most of those waking hours by chatting, until we overheard desperate whimpers. That was one of the longest nights of our lives.

And the fairy godmother granted the desire of the heartโ€ฆ

mt. pulag, luzon highest peak, P1, dakilanglaagan, benguet, mountain province, hiking, mountaineering, camping, how to get to mt. pulag, ambangeg trail, akiki trail
Mandatory Group Photo at the Summit

I canโ€™t recall if I was able to sleep that night or if it was all a dream, but I woke up with a heavy head. It was five in the morning, and instead of sulking in frustration, I went outside the tent, checked if everyone was doing fine inside their tents, and then suggested preparing breakfast.

Hot chocolate or coffee for that matter. Funny thing is, just when were about to drink what we prepared, in an instant, the hot chocolate and coffee turned sour cold. Yes, thatโ€™s how cold the weather was.

But even in that nasty situation, one by one, my comrades went out of their temporary shelter and fought the mist and the rain. โ€˜Bagyo ka lang, Pinoy kamiโ€™ HAHAHAHA.

And as if the heavens had heard our silent prayers, the fog began to wear thin and the drizzle came to a halt. Clearing!

Everyone rejoiced in jubilance, danced like crazy, and trail ran to the summit. There were several hikers from Ambangeg Trail who were already at the summit, but who cared? We have undergone far worse than complaints about the crowd. Everything on top was breathtaking, mystifying, enchanting, captivating, enthrallingโ€ฆ you name them all.

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Am I in the right direction? Who knows. But I guess whatever the mountains and these trips have taught can never be learned in the four walls of the classroom or in any academic book. Life lessons that I can always live by, experiences that I can always hang on to, and strength that would keep me sane amidst the harsh truths and quick pace of the city.

To Jeff, thanks for continuously organizing our climbs (most especially the weekend major climbs). To Lovely, Dennis, Wendy, Dennis, Javy, and Ate Jah, thanks for keeping up with the group. To the Team Last: Kaye, Jen, Happy, Ate Jovy, Princess, and Cristina, thanks for having a listening heart and for continuously supporting each other all through the whole journey (and for the unlimited trail food).

And for everyone who was with us, thanks, guys. Youโ€™re the best. I know the gods allowed us to hike together for a reason. I have always believed that God is preparing people for something biggerโ€”bigger things that can unravel only as I go along these journeys that I hope I can still manage to update on this blog. Letโ€™s get to know them together? Keep in touch with me on Facebook and Instagram!

Whatโ€™s your take on this? Feel free to comment below! Ideas are always welcomed. Here’s a quick peek at what happened that day. ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š

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Mt. Pulag Sea of Clouds

Mount Pulag, towering at 2,928 meters (9,606 feet) above sea level, is Luzon’s highest peak and the third-highest mountain in the Philippines. Nestled at the junction of Benguet, Ifugao, and Nueva Vizcaya provinces, it offers breathtaking views that lure many adventurers. One of its most enchanting sights is the “sea of clouds,” a surreal blanket of fog that engulfs the summit at dawn. On clear nights, stargazers are treated to an awe-inspiring view of the Milky Way Galaxy. As a dormant volcano, Pulag is not just a geological wonder but also a cultural treasure, being the sacred resting ground for the souls of the indigenous Ibaloi people and home to the tinmongao spirits.

Ecologically, Mount Pulag is a marvel, hosting 528 plant species and a diverse array of wildlife, including several endemic species. Its unique habitats range from lush mossy forests at lower elevations, filled with ferns, lichens, and moss, to the dwarf bamboo and Benguet pine forests on its slopes. The mountain is a sanctuary for rare animals like the Philippine deer, giant bushy-tailed cloud rat, and the newly discovered dwarf cloud rat. Climbers can explore four major trails, each offering a journey through this biodiversity hotspot. Despite its chilly climate, with temperatures sometimes dipping below freezing, Pulagโ€™s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage make it a must-visit destination for nature lovers and thrill-seekers alike.

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Mt. Pulag Sample Itinerary

Day 0
2200 Travel By Van From Airport to Baguio City/ Dinner at any food chain in any stop-over
Day 1ย 

  • 0400: ETA Baguio City. Breakfast, then proceed to the jeepney terminal/chartered jeep.
  • 0700: Take chartered jeepney to Akiki, Kabayan. Breakfast at any stop over
  • 0800: Proceed to DENR Station/ Visitor’s Center
  • 0815: Arrival at DENR Station, for Orientation and Last-Minute Shopping
  • 0945: Depart DENR, ride to Akiki Jump-off (Brgy. Doacan)
  • 1015: Arrival at Akiki Jump-off in Brgy. Doacan and start Trek
  • 1030: ETA Ranger Station. Register. Secure guides.
  • 1045: Start 2-hour trek to Eddet River
  • 1245: ETA Eddet River; set up camp. Prepare for Lunch
  • 1345: Lunch
  • 1400: Tour around Eddet River For Picture Taking
  • 1530: Prepare Dinner
  • 1730: Dinner / socials
  • 1830: EARLY LIGHTS OFF FOR NEXT DAY’S LONG HIKE
  • Day 2ย 
  • 0400: Wake up call. Prepare breakfast.
  • 0430: Breakfast
  • 0530: Break camp
  • 0700: Start 3-4 hr trek to Marlboro Country
  • 1100: Have early lunch at Marlboro country (water source)
  • 1200: Commence 3-hour trek through montane forest.
  • 1430: End of forest line (2600 MASL); Reach Grassland.
  • 1600: ETA Saddle campsite; set up camp.
  • 1730: Assault to summit. Sunset.
  • 1900: Dinner / socials
  • Day 3
  • 0330: WAKE UP CALL/ Prepare for Breakfast
  • 0430: Early Trek to Summit
  • 0500: Arrival at summit just in time for sunrise, picture-taking with sea of clouds
  • 0600: Trek Back to Campsite
  • 0630: Back at campsite; Breakfast
  • 0730: Break camp
  • 0800: Start descent via Ambangeg trail
  • 1200: ETA Ambangeg Ranger Stn; Settle guide fees; jeepney descent
  • 1230: At DENR-PAO; tidy up/ get certificates (optional)/ log-out
  • 1300: Lunch
  • 1400: Head back to Baguio City
  • 1530: stop by Ambuklao Dam, Take Pictures
  • 1730: ETA Baguio City. free time for side trips
  • 2200: Head back to Manila

Day 4
0400 Arrival in Manila